Packaging Printing

Converting:
Changing one thing into another - turning a flat sheet of paper into a glued, folded, more complext structure.

Think about bleeds - if a letter head has a 2 bleed edge they're going to have to use larger sheets of paper

Any kind of show through special thing- embossing, letterpress
(seattle envelope company - has pdfs of dies on their site)

Specialty Process -
Not for large runs - maybe 10s of thousands.

Lithographic Methods:
1) Thermography - wet ink gets a thermo powder and then dried - waxy w/ raised texture - if folded it will crack
Can get thermo powder at craft stores - best using inkjet printers or wet soluable inks and brushing water on it - put powder on and then heat w/ iron.

2) Varnishing- after printing method
gives a different sheen to a section of paper - only works well on coated papers
Graphic Arts Monthly - has varnish and stacato printing
Comping for varnish - usually a spot color is placed over the area to be varnished

Relief:
1) Letterpress - traditional w/ lead type
sometimes wood type
most popular - magnizim (lastlonger & get more detail) or polimar

2) Foil Stamping -
uses heat to transfer the foil to the paper
no easy way to comp foil
can not do fine detail, thin script or halftone
to compt metal ink - buy Pearl-x mix with matt medium and paint over for metal ink

3) Embossing
a) damentinal - most expensive - needs a positive and a negative plates
b) embossing or debossing - copper plates - can easily print and then embossing
comping an emboss - file folder, cut design (through both layers) with really sharp blade, place paper over the cut, using a burnisher rub around the edges. Use a wide tipped burnirsher

Engraving:
uses an etched plate - great for high detail work
doesn't ware down fast

Scoring, perfing, and die cutting:
Scoring - can happen through a di cutting machine or done with a scoring wheel - always done on the out side of the fold
Perfing - micro and standard - on die machine or perfing wheel
Die Cutting - template that its going to take to get a specific shape - easy to speck: solid black line on a dif. layer
Lazer Cutting - can get great details cut out

binding 9-8-05

Saddle-Stitch Binding
- Signatures or spreads
- Opened and draped over saddle
- Stapled or sewn along the spine
- Lays Flat
- Signature Creep with long publications
- Really inexpensive

Perfect (Glue) Binding
- loose sheets or signatures
- usually stacked, milled and glued
- cover is applied to the glued spine
- Can sometimes print on the spine
- can lose content in the gutter
- Variety of binding methods...
- Expensive
- grinding process allows more glue to go between the signatures
- from the spine about 1/8th inch in there is a score becuase of the glue seeping over.

Punch Binding
Comb-binding Wire Spiral-Binding, Wire O binding
- Allows for full bleeds
- Reguires four-edge trim from signatures
- Easy for loose-sheets
-Punched holes block gutter content

Side-Stitching Binding
-Signatures or Loose Sheets
-Stapled or sewn along the side of the spine
-Doesn't lay flat
-Content easily lost in the gutter

Screw & Post Binding
-Loose sheets & Signatures
- Good For changing content
- Expandable
-Doesn't lay flat
- Content easily lost in the gutter

Tape Binding
-Loose Sheets & Signature
- Book lays flat
- Not very durable
- Inexpensive
- Weakest method of binding

Glue-
Cold cure glue method - PVA
Hot cured glues - liquid when hot and hard when cold

Channel Binding
-Loose sheets & signature
-Doesn't lay flat
-Content easily lost in gutter
- a metal channel is usually squeezed over the block (clamping them together)

Case Binding
-Signatures
- Puts "hard-cover" on book-block
- block can be sewn or glued
- most durable
- most expensive
-need to start with a pre-bound book block

Smith- Sawn Binding (in text book)
-New method
- mix of case and perfect
- will lay relatively flat
- flexable covers that are stiff
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